Santo Antão, the northernmost and most dramatic of the Cape Verde islands, is a sleepy little paradise with a touch of Africa, where life unfolds at a calm and peaceful pace.
With its steep mountain ranges, lush valleys framed by vertical rock walls, hillsides covered in tropical vegetation, barren, desert-like plateaus, impressive cobbled mule paths, and carefully cultivated terraced fields, the island reveals a new face every day, balancing mountains and sea, vibrant green landscapes and the almost vegetation-free, uninhabited 'Norte'. Join our local guide Odair and our friend and island expert Mirco Massetti from Bolzano on this trekking journey to discover the true Cape Verde.
Santo Antão is the second-largest island in the archipelago. It has no airport and no road encircling the island. Many places can only be reached on foot, making it a true paradise for trekkers and hikers. The island offers untouched nature and a simple, welcoming way of life.
We will arrive in São Vicente and then take a ferry (approx. 1 hour) to the remote harbour of Porto Novo in the south of Santo Antão.
Initially, the island appears dry and rugged, yet it is fascinating in its own unique way, with volcanic landscapes, deep gorges and remote desert areas that we explore on adventurous hikes. The lush, green side of the island lies hidden behind the mountains in the north, separated from the rest of the island by a central mountain ridge.
Our routes take us across the entire island. We hike for 5 to 8 hours each day, covering distances of between 5 and 20 kilometres, with elevation changes ranging from 300 to 1,300 metres in total (combined ascent and descent). We head inland, climbing through green valleys and passing small farms on steep slopes. En route, we pass sugar cane plantations, coffee, banana and papaya fields, as well as yam and cassava crops, all of which are cultivated on terraces using minimal water.
On the west coast, we reach beautiful beaches and picturesque villages right by the sea that are inaccessible by road – and, incredibly, without a harbour. We explore the coastline via historic stone paths, travelling from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha da Garça, and from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo. In the evening, we return by traditional wooden boat and enjoy freshly caught fish.
One of the day's highlights is the ascent of the island’s highest peak: the volcanic crater of Tope de Coroa (1,979 m). However, the true highlight of the day is the descent via the spectacular switchbacks of the Bordeira de Norte, a rock face that drops almost vertically. The programme also includes visits to a local goat's cheese farm and a grogue distillery, with tastings, of course.
During our hikes, we reach a new place to stay almost every day. We stay in simple, family-run guesthouses in the mountains and small, locally run hotels by the sea. Luggage is transported on most days (except two), giving this journey the authentic feel of a trekking adventure rather than a classic hiking trip.